Sant'Emidio di Ascoli's book and manuscripts with velvet covers at the sublime porte

Official URL: https://dx.doi.org/10.13138/2039-2362/3430

This paper explores the shared utilization of luxurious fabrics in the Ottoman Empire and the Venetian Republic during the late fifteenth century through an Italian velvet frequently depicted by Carlo Crivelli. After conquering Constantinople in 1453, Sultan Mehmed II designated the city as the new capital of the Ottoman Empire and established a personal library at the Topkapı Palace. This library housed a collection of rare manuscripts, some of which were covered with red and green Italian velvet. The abundance of Italian fabrics in the Ottoman court serves as evidence of a robust network of commercial relations between the two powers. From the fifteenth century onwards, the Ottoman capital emerged as a significant hub for the import and export of fabrics. Simultaneously in Italy, the thriving trading center of Ancona witnessed economic prosperity and its residents benefited from the flourishing environment. The commercial activities preceding this great transformation in Ancona began in the last quarter of the fifteenth century, precisely when Carlo Crivelli was active in Marche. In 1473, Carlo Crivelli completed the Polittico di Sant’Emidio for the Duomo di Ascoli, in which Sant’Emidio is depicted holding a manuscript covered in bright red velvet fabric. This masterpiece is emblematic of Crivelli’s consistent incorporation of contemporary fabrics into his paintings. This paper delves into the significance of these fabrics as indicators of a shared cultural and artistic language, transcending political boundaries and fostering a rich dialogue between the Ottoman and Venetian worlds.